end of Nova
Scotia is an island unto itself. Called Cape Breton, it was one
of the last bastions of French expansion in the Maritime
Provinces. In 1713, Europe was recovering from one of its many
territorial wars. As a result of conflicts between England and
France, France abandoned its holdings on Newfoundland which had
become difficult to defend. Still France wanted a strong position
along the Atlantic coast for these parts were some of the richest
fishing banks yet found. The French had acquired a taste for the
abundant Cod that were caught in the area. A deep natural harbor
on the southeast end of Cape Breton seemed to be the most
defendable location and so the French set about building one of
the most dynamic forts in the new world. Around this
fortification sprang up the city of Louisbourg which started out
with those who left Newfoundland when the British arrived.
Although the French intended Louisbourg to be a magnificent
center, there was never any intention to create an agriculture
base,
nor to allow Louisbourg to become self-sufficient. Everything
needed or wanted by the residents was to be shipped in as trade
for the cod, which was then shipped out. Several hundred French
soldiers were added to the defense in anticipation of yet unknown
future aggressions. By 1740 Louisbourg was a large thriving
trading and fishing community which rivaled all ports in the
North Atlantic. Two thousand people made a permanent home there.
In the summer the number would swell as additional fishing
vessels arrived along with goods brought down from Quebec. It was
the stopping place for many a ship bound for a variety of ports
in Europe. But the great sea powers of Europe were in the throws
of expansionism and as such conflict was inevitable. In 1744
England and France went to war again and England sent an
expedition force of some 4000 men from the Colonies in New
England, to Cape Breton to conquer the Fort at 
Louisbourg.
With the harbor blockaded, Louisbourg found itself cut off and
facing a far superior force in number. Many experts believe that
given a proper response, France could have probably saved the
fort, but such was not to happen. Some 46 days after the opening
barrage Louisbourg, while still holding its wall and mote in
tact, was running low in supplies and power. The Fort capitulated
in June. It occupants were soon exiled back to France. Peace
brought about new treaties and, as such, Cape Breton and
Louisbourg were returned to French control. The inhabitants
returned and it was business as usual, and again Louisbourg's
population swelled as the fish and the harbor provided the
necessities for a thriving French trade with 
the
new world. This would last for just over a decade before England
and France took up arms and Louisbourg once again became a target
for British conquest. This time Louisbourg set up far reaching
defense positions blocking every approach to the coast. Still in
1758, a large British force waded ashore at Kinnington Cove, and
the result was inevitable. There was another siege, another
capitulation, and another exile back to France for the
inhabitants. This would be the end of Louisbourg and for the most
part the end of French rule
along the Atlantic coast of the New World.
Three years later, the British would raze the fortifications, and
the surrounding town began it slow steady disintegration. The Louisbourg complex covers several acres and good walking shoes are suggested, as well as allotting several hours for the visit. Having acquired the self-guide book at the visitors' center, we hopped on the shuttle for the mile or so ride out to the entrance to the Fort. Our first exposure was to the Des Roches fishing shack where we met our first docent of the day. A delightful girl who was setting the table for the evening meal. This dwelling represented the main reason for the fort and the town. Cod had become the staple for trade. Hundreds of these houses dotted the shores all around the town. Fishermen brought home the catch which was then cleaned, salted and laid out on long wooden racks called "flakes" to dry.
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